• Ornamental lawns no less than 1 inch unless everyday lawn maintenance
• Low use residential lawns 1.5  to 2 inches. Raise in dry weather.
• Heavy use lawns 1 to 2 inches. Regular mowing thickens the lawn.
• Shady areas try adding 50% to the lawn mowing height as it is starved of light. Mow lightly.
• Slopes and inclines dry out quicker so add 50% to the height
• If you have moss in the lawn mow above the moss height to stop moss growth.
• If you are not sure always mow higher do not scalp your lawn

Lawn Fetiliser

Follow our lawn mowing tips and tricks you will get a head start.

March Grass is starting to Grow now. The first cut needs to be high

April The temperature of the soil increases generally during this month which will mean rapid growth of both lawns and weeds. Frequent mowing needs to take place now preferably 10 days to 2 weeks. Keep the lawn height at 1.5 inches. You may need to water if there is a prolonged dry period.

May & June Aim for weekly mowing if possible and remove all grass clippings to ensure you start the season with no thatch build up for the autumn period.

July & August

• Only mow if the lawn grows.
• If not and dry raise the height to 2 or 2.5 inches to conserve moisture in the soil.
• Consider every 2 weeks to cut the grass depending on drought periods.

September The rainy season approaches and helps the lawn to recover any drought periods. You can lower the height if your lawn was above 1.5 inches but no lower as we start to move into Moss season.

October Mowing will be less frequent now as the ground becomes cooler and the rainy season sets in. Do not cut low to discourage moss growth and late weeds.

November You may get a few cuts in within this month but focus more on removing debris on you lawn with a rake or lawn mower. This helps to discourage any lawn disease.

Winter Lawn Mowing Maybe a light cut on a dry day. Do not mow when wet and frosty as this will damage the grass. Aeration and Moss Control can be done around these times.

Follow our lawn mowing tips and you will get a head start.

Border or Spaced Edges:

• Approach the edges of a lawn and leave a 6 – 12 inch space between the lawn cut and the border edge as the lawn mower or yourself may damage the defining perimeter edge of the lawn. (Move to next step)
• Trim the edges with edger, shears or grass strimmer when needed. Also, the remaining 6 -12 inches of a lawn can then be strimmed to ensure neatness.
• Any repairs to edges can be neatened up with a half-moon tool or a dedicated lawn edger if you have one
• Try to cut down the edges at a slight sloping angle into the

Tight or Butted Edges:

• Butted lawns against paving or pathways will be ok to mow over the edge. Pay attention to your cutting height to avoid blade damage.
• Any difference in height between both edges then either use a strimmer or edging tool.
• Keep a close eye on the gap created around the edges as this can sometimes produce moss growth due to moisture build-up on rainy days.
• Edges dry out very quickly due to heat build-up within a path or paver which in turn draws moisture from your lawn. Tip – place a wooden edge between the concrete and lawn to ensure your border edge doesn’t look unsightly. Pay particular attention to lawn edges when watering

If the lawn has a ‘silver sheen’ or ‘frayed’ look after mowing the blade(s) need sharpening or a Scarification is due.

Please check out this blog article guide on soil types. Remember your soil type is pivotal tothe success of your lawn growth.